Fixing the roof to my NSWGR G-2 Goods Shed left me with one glaring problem. The model building almost looked too good. With construction of New South Wales G-2 standard corrugated iron goods sheds dating back to the early 1900's, Philden Goods Shed looked more like a brand new Titan shed than an historic railway artifact. The solution? Rustall.
|This was a Christmas present from years back that had waited patiently for construction to start on my HO layout.|
A few Christmases ago, my daughter's boyfriend impressed his future father-in-law with a gift that was sure to win him over. I'd looked for Rustall here in Australia for years without any luck, and somehow he'd managed to trace down a kit for me. The only problem was that selling my N scale empire and starting work on my Australian HO layout has taken me this long to be able to use it. They say Rustall 'rusts anything'. Well, I was about to find out.
|Step 1, painting the rust onto a new model at first looks a little harsh.|
Without any experience using Rustall before, I dived straight into the box, quickly read the instructions and pulled out my paintbrushes. It looked pretty straightforward, 4 numbered bottles, 4 different results, simply stir and apply. Bottle 1 is the rust, a muddy-looking concoction that achieves varied results depending on how thick you apply it. At first it looks a little harsh when applied onto a new model, but I soon discovered it worked best when applied in gradual layers.
|Step 2, adding the black-wash highlights gives the rusted areas some body.|
Bottle 2 was simply some black-wash highlights that randomly collect on the rusted panels, giving the rust some body, and the barer patches of corrugated iron a much-needed coat of weathering.
|Step 3, the flat grey toner blends all the layers together.|
Without sounding like I'm giving make-up tips, bottle 3 was a flat grey toner. When applied, it blends the rust, black-wash and painted silver surface of the corrugated iron together. There was a 4th bottle in the kit that contained a dirt powder for dry-weathering the finished model, but as my goods shed will sit up on a timber platform, I think I'll save that for another project.
|The finished result, my goods shed is now awaiting the fascia, corner soffits and bargeboards to be added.|
In Australia, corrugated iron rusts. The older the structure, the deeper the rust tends to be. Without having photographed an actual G-2 Goods Shed to use as my reference, I simply gave the roof a rustier finish than the side walls. I wanted to rust the goods shed now, before fitting the fascia, corner soffits and bargeboards to the model. My model is meant to replicate a well-worn, but still functionally sound goods shed, and although I was a little heavy-handed at first, for my first-time using Rustall, I'm pretty happy with the results. Now I just have to get those fascia boards painted, but as usual, that's a story for another day.
See also; Goods Shed Part Four or Goods Shed Part Two and Goods Shed Part One and Building a Goods Platform